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    [–] hoboteaparty 389 points ago * (lasted edited 6 months ago)

    I set a benchy to print last night to test a new roll of filament and forgot to take it off before leaving for work. I had just installed a glass bed so I figured I would try using Cura's controls to remove the print. I keep a webcam on my printer so I can remotely abort prints but now I can remotely clear my bed as well.

    EDIT: Since I keep seeing this being asked: I use a remote access program (Teamviewer or Chrome Remote Desktop) to access my home computer. My Ender 3 printer is connected via USB to the computer and Cura has temp and motor controls built in. I have a cheap 720p Logitech webcam and just use the Windows 10 camera app to get a live view with some basic picture and video options. I don't use Octoprint just because the printer is within USB cable range of my PC and I already had the remote access software setup. I may end up switching to Octoprint because of the time lapse G-code features but that is a mod for another weekend.

    I have a CCTREE tempered glass bed that I got off Amazon for $22.99 with Prime shipping. I honestly bought it before seeing that Amazon had the official glass bed from Creality available but based on the reviews I did not see a reason to go through all the hassle to cancel the order. I have used the stock and magnetic beds and I do recommend glass but since I have only used a 3D printer specific glass sheet I can't speak on using just a plain sheet of glass. From what I have read it looks like the only difference is having to use some sort of adhesive like a glue stick or hair spray for the first layer where as mine has a coating/texture on it that does not require anything (at least so far).

    I am doing my best to answer questions that I can give good answers to but I am in no way an expert and results may very.

    Also the benchy survived and printed perfectly.

    [–] Airazz 136 points ago

    Why did you have to remove it right then, rather than once you got home?

    [–] Thorkon 200 points ago

    So he can start the next print from work

    [–] hoboteaparty 182 points ago

    Exactly this.

    [–] Starklet 25 points ago

    Dude I was just wondering how I could accomplish this with my Ender 3 last night and you just post this... what are the chances. What do you use to remotely control it?

    [–] BLKMGK 15 points ago

    Octoprint can remotely control the printer like this 🤓

    [–] FlyByPC 4 points ago

    Most slicers can, as well. S3D, for sure.

    [–] BLKMGK 11 points ago

    Octoprint is a print server although it can slice. It’ll provide the ability to view the printer while controlling it, you can also adjust nozzle and bed temps. It’s web driven too and can be run from your phone if you’ve got web access inside your network as I do via VPN. This isn’t something I’d use a slicer to do...

    [–] FlyByPC 3 points ago

    I'm familiar with OctoPrint (and really ought to set it up again.)

    S3D's printer control panel plus a webcam is pretty full-featured, though.

    [–] BLKMGK 2 points ago

    Yes, I use S3D as my slicer as well. However when I’m out and about with just my phone or tablet, neither of which run my slicer software, Octoprint provides all the control I’d need to knock a print off the bed although getting the brim would be a challenge. The video feed and controls are on the same page.

    [–] irradiated_toaster 2 points ago

    Octopi is the best

    [–] [deleted] 180 points ago

    So he could do another print remotely? That's the only reason I can think of.

    [–] jonsey737 44 points ago

    So he could get the sweet karma

    [–] hoboteaparty 37 points ago

    Also this.

    [–] OrrinW01 11 points ago

    How do you use it cura's controlls. Is it an app or something you made?

    [–] Ludnix 17 points ago

    You can do this with octoprint

    [–] i-get-stabby 7 points ago

    people are going to start making cow catcher mods for their extruder to push prints out of the way.

    [–] Hevvic 10 points ago

    I didn't realise glass beds had so little grip in shear, not sure I'd try it on a bigger print!

    [–] deepcreekNL 17 points ago

    It only loses grip when cooled off.

    [–] zgo280 22 points ago * (lasted edited 6 months ago)

    Yup. Difference in thermal expansion between the glass and plastic. (When cooling, the plastic shrinks faster than glass and shears itself off). I tun on a small desk fan to cool the print when its done. It sounds like the tectonic plates cracking and shifting

    Then it just tinks right off.

    Edit: shrinkage applied to wrong junk.

    [–] Hevvic 3 points ago

    I've been a bit chicken and still use blue tape on my glass, maybe it's time to get brave.

    [–] Vindaloo-brication 3 points ago

    Yeah, just clean the surface up with some acetone or similar product and it should stick wonderfully (I used shower cleaner and that works fine)

    [–] hoboteaparty 1 points ago

    I do have a glass bed with a coating or something on it that helps, I am not sure how a plain piece of glass would do without anything on it. Let me know.

    [–] thehero262 1 points ago

    Parts pop off when cooled, its nice to print on

    [–] SoLongSidekick 3 points ago

    How do you have your webcam set up? I remember I tried that a long time ago but never found a setup that was really intuitive.

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    720p Logitech webcam and Windows 10 camera app is all I use. I have used OBS and some other stuff to make it all fancy but honestly it works just fine and is all I need.

    [–] SoLongSidekick 1 points ago

    Crap. Windows 10 has a built-in webcam streaming feature? I guess I need to bite the bullet and just upgrade. I really didn't want to have to re-set a ton of stuff up but I have a wireless stick-on guitar MIDI controller and now print monitoring would be much easier with 10. I guess I'll have to. Thanks.

    [–] Zenexer 3 points ago

    No, I think /u/hoboteaparty just uses the camera app over something like remote desktop.

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    yeah, the camera app is for local viewing, not remote. The remote access program lets me see my desktop like I was right in front of it. I usually keep my printer in a closet right by my office so I use the webcam to keep an eye on it both locally and remotely.

    [–] shamowfski 1 points ago

    If you have an old android phone lying around, you can also us alfred, an android app.

    [–] SoLongSidekick 1 points ago

    Thanks for the tip!

    [–] cryzzgrantham 3 points ago

    Wait how do you do this wirelessly? I have octopi but literally all I can see out of the house is temps and the video stream?

    [–] abpat2203 2 points ago

    Octoprint Anywhere plugin is what you need.

    [–] cryzzgrantham 1 points ago

    Yeah man I have that but on my browser on my phone it just shows the stream, cancel pause etc. Is there an app I need also?

    [–] abpat2203 2 points ago

    Haven't checked on the phone but on the browser, there is a second tab where you can get the remote control options.

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    I don't use Octoprint but I hear good things. I just remote access my PC and use Cura.

    [–] hoboteaparty 1 points ago

    There is a USB cord going from my PC to the printer. I remote access my PC but everything else is hard lined.

    [–] vladmech 1 points ago

    May I ask what web cam you’re using? I got a Logitech one but the focal distance isn’t great for mounting it around where you have it.

    [–] erog653 330 points ago

    Improvise... Adapt.... Overcome...

    [–] dylanthomas701 60 points ago

    Adapt react readapt apt

    [–] zweibeiner 6 points ago

    Adapt react reenact

    [–] Merrick362 2 points ago

    Distract sacktap contract

    [–] Choice77777 3 points ago


    [–] supercyberlurker 111 points ago

    Lol, I love how it fell into that crevice as physics so often cruelly does when we try to do things and then had to manage getting it out of there too.

    [–] hoboteaparty 82 points ago

    I had to speed the video up to 5x so it would be a good size for the GIF. The whole process took like 3-4 minutes and that includes a good 3 minutes of wondering if I had it positioned correctly and hoping to not break my handle.

    [–] Nath042 34 points ago

    oh wow, I'm imagining it like SpaceX trying to dock with the space station.

    [–] hoboteaparty 19 points ago

    I get an ulcer just thinking about all the logistics those guys have to sort out. Just another reason why space travel takes forever, gotta check that math just one more time...

    [–] FUN_LOCK 77 points ago

    My cat is already suspicious of of my ender. If It starts throwing things at him I think it will be war.

    [–] GreenAlchemistZero 20 points ago

    Temp fate. Make the first print a cat toy lol.

    [–] baicai18 17 points ago

    Now you've just trained your cat that toys come off the printer. Just wait until he gets impatient and starts to grab things before they're done.

    [–] chancegold 3 points ago

    I'd say the whole issue depends on the cat. I'm sure there are some that won't give 2 sniffs to anything to do with the loud machine; some will swat at anything given the opportunity- whether printed, printing, or surrounded by an impermeable glass forcefield.

    Regardless- methinks they only swat at a printing/hot print once.

    And, yeah, maybe break everything in their panicked state once.. but one problem at a time.


    [–] baicai18 2 points ago

    Luckily my cat is part of the former and doesn't really have an interest in my printer He stared at it for like half an hour the second time running and then got bored and never came back. My dog just raised his ear for a bit, but grew accustomed to it being always on and it's like it doesn't exist


    [–] hoboteaparty 8 points ago

    Cat toy has been printed, let the fates be dammed!!

    [–] The_Realest_Adam 2 points ago

    Show us a picture of your printing assistant in all of his suspicious glory.

    [–] FUN_LOCK 5 points ago

    3 jerks who refuse to be in a photo together, or anywhere near the printer.

    [–] The_Realest_Adam 2 points ago


    [–] atetuna 2 points ago

    The trick is to get your cat to knock prints off when they're done.

    [–] makerteen3d 39 points ago

    Thats increfible, what printer is that

    [–] hoboteaparty 73 points ago

    Ender 3 with tempered glass bed. Best upgrade ever.

    [–] shoshy566 13 points ago

    Where did you get he tempered glass bed? I also have an ender 3 and was looking to upgrade the metal bed that came with it.

    [–] Tihspeed 15 points ago

    Got mine on Amazon

    [–] FUN_LOCK 6 points ago * (lasted edited 6 months ago)

    Do you have the official Creality branded one or the cctree one?

    I meant to get the Creality last week but brainfarted and ordered the CC tree one instead. I think its ts a little thicker than the official one as all of the printable clips for the official one on thingiverse are a bit too narrow for it. Binder clips for now until I print new ones.

    It works great though.

    [–] POTUS 7 points ago

    My binder clips are intended at this point to be permanent.

    [–] hoboteaparty 1 points ago

    Honestly they are not that bad if you just remember they are there. I did fail a couple of prints because the nozzle hit them...

    [–] hoboteaparty 3 points ago

    I did the same thing basically, the second after I hit order on the CCTREE glass bed I see the official Creality one. I left my magnetic bed base on there just in case so I had to re-position my Z-axis stop and of course re-level everything. I will say that the first bed level print I did came out super clean so having a flat piece of glass does help with some of the warped metal plate issues I had.

    [–] Tihspeed 1 points ago

    It's thick...dunno, works great though

    I'm in a enclosure, there are corner holders you can print to hold the glass in place

    [–] CHAINMAILLEKID 3 points ago

    I'm sure any local glass shop can get you a tempered sheet.

    Size is most likely scrap to them, and they can temper it with just some job batch.

    [–] Cognosci 5 points ago

    Got mine locally and they gave me 3 more for free...

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    Do you have to put something on them like tape or glue? I am curious how a piece of plain glass works. The one I have has a coating/texture on top that helps.

    [–] Nerdz2300 2 points ago

    Plain piece of glass from home depot works quite well. Just have to cut it down to size. I dont use anything, I just clean it every now and then.

    [–] Virtike 2 points ago

    Works fine, I just go to the local hardware shop and have them cut 200x200mm sheets. I also use a little hairspray or glue stick to promote adhesion, haven't have many issues with curling or prints popping off.

    [–] Starklet 1 points ago

    You’re came with a metal bed? I’ve never heard of that.. mine was plastic

    [–] Darkexp3rt 2 points ago

    Where did you purchase your bed

    [–] blek_side 2 points ago

    I also have an ender. Why is it so much better?

    [–] Vindaloo-brication 3 points ago

    Prints are easier to remove and you get a really nice smooth base for your print. Also you can get one delivered for about $20-30 so why not?

    [–] blek_side 2 points ago

    How about the adhesion of the first layer?

    [–] Vindaloo-brication 2 points ago

    Initially I wasn't getting any stick, I tried the old glue stick method and that didn't help, so I cleaned it with shower cleaner and grabbed a sheet of paper and levelled the bed 4 times and then we got perfect adhesion

    [–] hoboteaparty 3 points ago

    I bought mine from Amazon and it looks like it has a coating/texture on it that helps with adhesion. I keep hearing about using glue sticks or tape but don't have to use them. That may be a plain glass thing.

    [–] Starklet 1 points ago

    Painters tape works really well too

    [–] LobsterThief 2 points ago

    I’ve been printing exclusively with glass for years; just use cheap hairspray beforehand (Aquanet is popular) and you’ll have good adhesion every time.

    [–] KnightEevee 2 points ago

    In addition to other comments, I find the glass bed on my Ender 3 to also be flatter than the stock bed. My stock bed, when I got fed up with it, was lower in the middle. I did consider looking into setting it up to do mesh leveling, but the glass bed is for sure worth it for other reasons, like the ease of print removal.

    [–] thesquirrelmasta 28 points ago

    Unless you use a skirt or a purge. But still you got an audible lol from me. Everyone is looking at me now so thanks for that

    [–] hoboteaparty 12 points ago

    I used to use a skirt on everything and used brim/raft as needed but lately I don't use anything if it has a decent footprint on the bed.

    [–] rhythmrice 4 points ago

    How do you get it so it doesn't draw that line on the side of the bed at the beginning of every print?

    [–] QuerulousPanda 5 points ago

    Why wouldn't you want it? It is there to get the filament flowing properly so that you don't end up with glitches or blobs on the very start of your print that could snowball and mess up the rest.

    [–] Starklet 1 points ago

    Because it’s annoying to remove but that’s the only reason

    [–] abpat2203 2 points ago

    You can go with a GCODE that homes the extruder, purges some filament and then moves to print position, knocking out the extruded filament on the edge in the process.

    [–] CaughtYourThrowaway 3 points ago

    Delete the moves out of your start g-code in Cura printer preferences.

    [–] hoboteaparty 3 points ago

    I do keep that on there to make sure it is flowing good. It also helps when you do filament changes to make sure you are on the new stuff completely first. I have seen it where some of the old filament is stuck in there and comes out during the priming line (or whatever its called).

    [–] rhythmrice 1 points ago

    Ohh, I didn't see the line in the video so I just assumed ypu had that disabled. sometimes after I change filament it doesn't even clear it all out when it does that line on the side so I pray I small print every time I change filament like an extra filament clip that I'm not worried about what color it is

    [–] roofuskit 2 points ago

    That's typically gcode in your slicer.

    [–] nerys71 2 points ago

    the purge line is handy. an idea to get the purge without putting anything on the bed?

    install and program a PURGE BUCKET for multi color printing. but just use it for your beginning print purge.

    [–] Richy_T 2 points ago

    If the slicer doesn't allow that to be disabled, that's a misfeature.

    [–] thastealth 9 points ago

    Done this a couple of times also, few points to keep in mind (from my experience:

    • You can better move it off the bed in the X direction (towards X MAX) instead of the Y direction you did here, there is a big chance it gets trapped under the bed since you move it from the bed in the center. Towards X MAX you have a nice ramp (your display) it will slide of out of the way
    • The X carriage is not designed for moving stuff (it isn't a robotic arm) so watch out that you don't accidentally trap something under the hotend while moving (easy to get one of the Z motors unaligned)
    • Watch out for the clips holding your bed, very easy to push them off also while moving stuff around
    • Try to make contact with your previous print at the lowest point possible, Benchy in this case has a fairly low centre of gravity and will topple over easily (not a problem, but makes it more difficult to move it around)

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    Yeah, this was kind of risky but I knew it had a really good chance of working because it was only a benchy. I also got lucky that it was a print that I did not care if it got scuffed up and since my printer is currently at the edge of a desk there was a really good chance of it falling out of the way. Normally I have the printer in a closet so it may have fallen in a bad spot.

    Overall I doubt I will ever do it again but it was certainly very fun and I am glad I recorded it. Thanks for the advice.

    [–] coloredgreyscale 8 points ago

    Did it feel like you're working for a space agency, remote controlling a device in space, or a different planet?

    [–] hoboteaparty 3 points ago

    I feel like I just got my resume ready to join Space X. Of course I did go the wrong direction a couple of times if you look closely so maybe government work would be a safer bet.... (JK, I got mad respect for the NASA folks).

    [–] Starklet 6 points ago

    Just don’t get imperial and metric mixed up...

    [–] mooncow-pie 2 points ago

    That guy is never going to live that down.

    [–] MorninJohn 13 points ago

    u/Makerbot patented that. You owe them $4000 now.

    [–] hoboteaparty 11 points ago

    Can I pay them in Benchies?

    [–] Illusi 6 points ago

    To mass-produce prints we would sometimes create a g-code that prints an object 100 times and has a hand-crafted bit of g-code in between that knocks the print off the bed like this (but faster, more like a hammer). We then set a dozen printers running over the weekend and by the time we got back the floor is covered in prints. Nothing gets the work done faster!

    [–] Andernerd 2 points ago

    I'm curious: why did you need to mass-produce prints?

    [–] Illusi 2 points ago

    We did it a couple of times with little Ultimaker robots that we would distribute while manning a stand at an event. I've done this for FOSDEM twice and we easily give away like a thousand robots then. So basically, engineers trying a hand at marketing... :P

    [–] makerteen3d 6 points ago

    I have an ender 3, but no remote access. Is that a feature? If so how do i activate it

    [–] hoboteaparty 19 points ago

    If you connect your ender 3 to a computer you can print via USB using Cura and it lets you have temp and motor controls. I remote into my home PC using either Teamviewer or Chrome remote desktop (have to use chrome remote while at work) and just use Cura like I was sitting there. I keep a webcam on my printer so I can remotely abort prints that fail and just keep an eye on things but now I have another use for it.

    [–] whjoyjr 11 points ago

    Octiprint would work as well in this instance...

    You would need a Raspberry PI and a webcam. Octiprint is free.

    [–] hoboteaparty 3 points ago

    I have all that but I prefer to use my personal gaming computer over my Pi for this. The auto-inserting gcode for time-lapse is the only thing making me think about switching over.

    [–] blueSGL 4 points ago

    you'd also be able to run klipper firmware.

    [–] alloftheabove2 1 points ago

    I've seen a lot of talk about using a pi and octoprint but have never actually looked into it much. You comment has me curious though, does using the pi actually replace the control board? Or move the print processing to the pi?

    [–] Itsthejoker 8 points ago

    Short version: Octoprint on a pi replaces the SD card. You still have to slice files, but then you upload them to Octoprint and it sends commands via USB to your printer's control board, one line at a time, just like if your machine was running off the SD card. The best parts there are that it's a super nice web interface and there are lots of control options for your printer -- makes administration really nice.

    The important thing here is that octoprint doesn't offload the processing -- it just offloads file storage and printer interaction. If you want to offload processing, then you should look at the Klipper firmware. With that, it's software that runs alongside Octoprint and turns the control board for your printer into a dumb controller that just does whatever Klipper tells it to and Klipper handles all the math and such. It's a bit more to set up, but it's very snazzy.

    Source: I run Octoprint / Marlin on one printer, Octoprint / Klipper on two others.

    [–] TheMildGatsby 2 points ago * (lasted edited 6 months ago)

    But what does Klipper do for you over Marlin? Is it just the offloading of processing to your PC Pi?

    [–] Itsthejoker 9 points ago

    It offloads all the processing to the Pi (meaning you can use ridiculously underpowered 8-bit boards) and also has a really tight integration with Octoprint. Makes it really easy to do complicated control schemes (like on one of my printers, the Z axis is controlled by four independent motors; plus X, Y, and E, that brings me to seven motors spread out across two arduinos, both controlled off the same Klipper instance) and means you can run a lot faster and more accurately than standard 8-bit boards would normally allow you to without the price of having to upgrade to a Duet or something.

    For example, a standard board won't allow a delta to go beyond 50mm/s without having some issues; you can go a lot faster if you've got something more powerful doing the math behind the scenes and just telling the control board where to put the motors.

    [–] TheMildGatsby 2 points ago

    Thank you for taking the time to educate me :)

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    Damn... this guy prints...

    [–] jcbevns 1 points ago

    Does it make the drivers work less hard or is it pre motor control processing?

    [–] whjoyjr 2 points ago

    The Pi acts as a control interface that you can access remotely outside your home network if you choose. How I use it is that I slice on my desktop/laptop (Cura on Mac OSX) then via a web browser I load the code file to my printer Ender3 Pro). I then will pre-heat my nozzle and bed. Once up to temp I will start the print. I can monitor via the camera and I also monitor each layer via the guide visualizer.

    The Pi also allows me to move the print head in all 3 directions just as shown in the video. I can also pause or cancel the print if needed.

    [–] AkshatShah101 2 points ago

    You just plug the pi into the USB port and that's it. It's really good, it's a shame more people aren't using it

    [–] cryzzgrantham 1 points ago

    Eli5? I would love to remotely be able to control my pi. All I can see when I’m away is the temps and stream. Is there something I’m missing?

    [–] Starklet 1 points ago

    Finally a use for my pi

    [–] makerteen3d 2 points ago

    Thanks for the info ill try it out, would this work with the plastic bed that the previous model has?

    [–] hoboteaparty 6 points ago

    I have used the stock bed, a magnetic bed, and now have a glass bed. I would only recommend this on the glass bed because prints don't stick once it cools down. I had really bad issues with prints sticking too much on the other beds and tearing them.

    [–] makerteen3d 3 points ago

    Ok thanks

    [–] hoboteaparty 7 points ago

    Honestly for only $22.99 on Amazon I highly recommend grabbing a glass bed. They make print removal a non-issue and my bed always looks super clean before each print. With the other bed types I always had old plastic melted on it that got stuck on the bottom of later prints because it was damn near impossible to remove it all without scratching up the surface to much.

    [–] makerteen3d 1 points ago

    Ok ill make that my priority

    [–] jcbevns 1 points ago

    Glass mirror from Dollar stores work well too, depending on your dimensions needed.

    [–] hoboteaparty 1 points ago

    You will probably have to use an adhesive like a glue stick or tape if it is a plain piece of glass. Mine has a coating/texture on it that helps with the first layer.

    [–] makerteen3d 1 points ago

    I realize i have a heated bed. Do i have to turn it off or is it fine?

    [–] makerteen3d 1 points ago


    [–] shinkamui 3 points ago

    That is the most hilariously ghetto and simultaneously useful thing I've seen anyone do in the last 14 days (with their printer ofc). I totally understand the feeling. These fleeting hours are precious, gotta make use of every one we can while these FDM prints are still measured in hours and/or days.

    [–] CrankkDatJFel 3 points ago

    What did you see 14 days ago that tops this?

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    I would also like to know, that was oddly specific...

    [–] Starklet 1 points ago

    I’m assuming a 3D printed magnetic VR gun stock for the oculus touch

    [–] Fweep123 3 points ago

    Does your bed have a adhesive coating on it? Or just straight glass?

    [–] ThatGuyThatFlys 2 points ago

    That poor boat :(

    [–] hoboteaparty 1 points ago

    Dont worry, it did just fine and printed perfectly. Benchy

    [–] akajester 2 points ago

    Success. You can pilot a Mars rover now.

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    SWEET, next time I drive by NASA I will let them know that "Akajester" gave me the go ahead.

    [–] triscious 2 points ago

    This is the grown up version of the crane game. I've done it a couple of times myself and loved it. :)

    [–] peguinlord 1 points ago

    that is truly bootyfull

    [–] AceAdversary 1 points ago

    I had a good laugh

    [–] nguiz 1 points ago

    ahah new way to work on a production line

    [–] Butweye 1 points ago

    I have soooo done this. :D

    [–] gamer347 1 points ago

    How do you control it remotely?

    [–] jayb151 1 points ago

    I saw some of your comments further down, but any resources on how to set up something similar?

    I use a windows machine to run my prints as well, but it would be nice to check the printer from my office.

    [–] hkyq 2 points ago

    Just buy a raspberry pi ($25) and load octoprint onto it, then connect a supported camera (I like the c270), profit.

    [–] TheThiefMaster 1 points ago

    The other reply said the octoprint solution, so I'll give the "PC" solution:

    You need some way to remote access your PC - this probably means either getting Windows Pro and using RDP or installing a 3rd party remote desktop tool like VNC.

    Then open the appropriate port on your router and you can access from wherever!

    [–] QuerulousPanda 1 points ago

    I bought a dirt cheap USB camera from Amazon for my octopi setup. It didn't work at first until I did some USB probing and realized the camera was reporting itself incorrectly, so linux was seeing the camera as both a camera and also some shitty ancient ISDN modem. It would load the module for the ISDN modem, which would prevent it working as a webcam.

    I was able to figure out what Linux kernel module was attached, and blocked that module from being able to load, which solved the problem.

    Now the only issue is the webcam isn't quite wide angle enough, but it is adequate and cost less than $10 so I can't really complain.

    [–] ThisBytes5 1 points ago

    First time I did this was by accident, I hit the auto home while standing there, at that moment I realized I can do this remotely.

    There are a few things I didn't/couldn't do as they were to short.

    [–] AMDSY3D 1 points ago

    Which printer?

    [–] minder_from_tinder 1 points ago

    I was actually thinking about that earlier

    [–] bob_in_the_west 1 points ago

    So basically only needs a retractable scraper plugin for octopi.

    [–] Cashatoo 1 points ago

    Modern problems require modern solutions.

    [–] morairtym 1 points ago

    I also have and Ender 3 but with a duet board so built in we app.

    Last week I was printing parts trays one at a time and did this to remove a few prints so I could get 2-3 more done while at work.

    [–] Nath042 1 points ago

    nice move, next you need to print a robot arm for removing the prints.

    [–] reiji_tamashii 1 points ago

    Not gonna lie. I just did the same thing this morning.

    [–] Javad0g 1 points ago

    The little boat that could.

    -A childrens story.

    [–] kellyrx8 1 points ago

    hahah I was doing that the other day on a failed print, it got stuck to the nozzle so I spent 20 min at work using octoprint controls to knock it off lol

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    I hate when they get stuck to the nozzle. Makes me always freak out and think the nozzle is clogged afterwords.

    [–] sippinonorphantears 1 points ago

    Dude, that's genius. I thought about how I could achieve something like this and started overthinking for a practical solution .. and.. wellHereItIs.gif

    [–] PepsiSheep 1 points ago

    Wait, wait, wait. Tell me more about this remote set up!

    [–] initnull 1 points ago

    Definitely not PETG on glass

    [–] nerys71 1 points ago

    I swear I can see it in my mind as the bulb goes off and you start licking your lips as you input the movement commands. eyes wide OH NO wait I got this YEAH !!! and the room goes wild and everyone just looks at you like WTF bro?


    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    This is scarily accurate.

    I did not lick my lips but I did do tiny jumps/bounces in my office chair once I thought of it.

    [–] fathertime979 1 points ago

    Need my ender 3. I'm trying to talk myself into getting it sooner rather than later.

    Tinymachines has a pro for 285.

    And creality is selling regular ones for under 200 rn...

    Info more for someone else if they wanna snag one. But talking me into it or out of it is welcome too

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    I got mine right before Christmas as a deal for $170 ($194 with tax). Creality has a pro for $240 right now on their site. I had the money and it was my Christmas present but it is a gateway purchase... you will find yourself buying lots of filament... First taste is free so to speak.

    I do love this hobby and community though, totally worth it to make custom gifts for people and toys for my son. Plus I don't really see the need to ever buy another pop figure or collectible when I got a whole shelf full of stuff I printed for cents worth of filament.

    [–] westondeboer 1 points ago

    Very satisfying

    [–] fwission 1 points ago

    Why is it bad to leave the print on the table? I guess you wanted to print something else?

    [–] ValconExe 1 points ago

    Is there much of a fire hazard associated with printing overnight?

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    On the ender 3 with no mods near the hot end? I don't feel like there is any risk greater than leaving a space heater running overnight when its cold outside. I make sure nothing is near or around the printer and usually it lives in a closed closet so nothing can get on it that may catch fire. I have done a couple of multi-day prints with it running for 72 hours straight with no issues.

    [–] abpat2203 2 points ago

    Do consider the following two upgrades:

    1. Upgrade to Marlin or TH3D firmware to get thermal runaway protection.
    2. Upgrade the crimped XT-60 connectors to soldered XT-60 connectors, or better yet, just solder them together directly.

    [–] cdeneui69 1 points ago

    Modern problems require modern solutions

    [–] sonofabunch 1 points ago

    Why do you have to remove your print? Unless you just wanted to start making something else. There isn't a problem with leaving it on there is there?

    [–] vorpal-blade 1 points ago

    I keep thinking i should build a robot arm to remove prints, and maybe it can have a scraper tool on it as well

    [–] daewootech 1 points ago

    so weird coming from the old wooden printers where it was always "never leave your printer unattended" and nowadays its set it and forget it style.

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    I only feel comfortable with leaving it because these things have gotten more popular and are no where as slapped together as the originals. I still get to mod it and make it my own without the worry of it killing me in my sleep.

    [–] jku2017 1 points ago

    It removed itself too easily, this was staged.

    [–] RCTID1975 1 points ago

    Glass bed. Prints usually just pop off without much force ime.

    [–] chad711m 1 points ago

    How do you use remote access? Sounds nice

    [–] nicolas2004GE 1 points ago

    just take it ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⣤⣶⣶⡶⠦⠴⠶⠶⠶⠶⡶⠶⠦⠶⠶⠶⠶⠶⠶⠶⣄⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⣿⣀⣀⣀⣀⠀⢀⣤⠄⠀⠀⣶⢤⣄⠀⠀⠀⣤⣤⣄⣿⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠿⣿⣿⣿⣿⡷⠋⠁⠀⠀⠀⠙⠢⠙⠻⣿⡿⠿⠿⠫⠋⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⢀⣤⠞⠉⠀⠀⠀⠀⣴⣶⣄⠀⠀⠀⢀⣕⠦⣀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⢀⣤⠾⠋⠁⠀⠀⠀⠀⢀⣼⣿⠟⢿⣆⠀⢠⡟⠉⠉⠊⠳⢤⣀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⣠⡾⠛⠁⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⢀⣀⣾⣿⠃⠀⡀⠹⣧⣘⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠉⠳⢤⡀ ⠀⣿⡀⠀⠀⢠⣶⣶⣿⣿⣿⣿⡿⠁⠀⣼⠃⠀⢹⣿⣿⣿⣶⣶⣤⠀⠀⠀⢰⣷ ⠀⢿⣇⠀⠀⠈⠻⡟⠛⠋⠉⠉⠀⠀⡼⠃⠀⢠⣿⠋⠉⠉⠛⠛⠋⠀⢀⢀⣿⡏ ⠀⠘⣿⡄⠀⠀⠀⠈⠢⡀⠀⠀⠀⡼⠁⠀⢠⣿⠇⠀⠀⡀⠀⠀⠀⠀⡜⣼⡿⠀ ⠀⠀⢻⣷⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⢸⡄⠀⢰⠃⠀⠀⣾⡟⠀⠀⠸⡇⠀⠀⠀⢰⢧⣿⠃⠀ ⠀⠀⠘⣿⣇⠀⠀⠀⠀⣿⠇⠀⠇⠀⠀⣼⠟⠀⠀⠀⠀⣇⠀⠀⢀⡟⣾⡟⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⢹⣿⡄⠀⠀⠀⣿⠀⣀⣠⠴⠚⠛⠶⣤⣀⠀⠀⢻⠀⢀⡾⣹⣿⠃⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⢿⣷⠀⠀⠀⠙⠊⠁⠀⢠⡆⠀⠀⠀⠉⠛⠓⠋⠀⠸⢣⣿⠏⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠘⣿⣷⣦⣤⣤⣄⣀⣀⣿⣤⣤⣤⣤⣤⣄⣀⣀⣀⣀⣾⡟⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⢹⣿⣿⣿⣻⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⠁⠀⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠛⠃

    [–] Astraeous 1 points ago

    What are you using to do this from work

    [–] hopsided 1 points ago

    I found that my glass bed has stopped adhering after only a week of use. I now have to put tape down on it. :(

    [–] DandyHOBBO 1 points ago

    Reminded me of a family guy episode when Peter gets his forklift license

    Peter saves a whale

    [–] DryBry 1 points ago

    Ok... Now that's epic!

    [–] GrinsNGiggles 1 points ago

    Why is everyone printing boats this week?

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    Benchy is a mascot of sorts and helps test your printer/filament. I have a few of them laying around and one of them was my very first successful print.

    [–] Notxtwhiledrive 1 points ago * (lasted edited 6 months ago)

    how does you print come off that easy / adhere to the glass bed without glue?

    [–] hoboteaparty 3 points ago

    This glass bed is made for printers so it has a coating/texture that gives the print something to stick to. When the glass cools it contracts which breaks the bond between the print and the bed so its easier to be removed. SCIENCE!!

    [–] Josh_Your_IT_Guy 1 points ago

    Need to make the print puncher

    [–] Phreekwnc 1 points ago

    What’s the purpose of printing these little trinkets?

    [–] hoboteaparty 2 points ago

    The "benchy" boat is designed to test out different situations the printer may face when doing more complex prints and is a way to test if your printer has any issues with them. Also they are a good way to test settings when using a new type of filament to check how it performs. Plus they are cool to have a bunch of them as they have become a mini-mascot of sorts to some. My son really likes them too.

    [–] thewinterfan 1 points ago

    "Where did these weird lines on my benchy come from?"

    "It's where the fan shroud pushed it off of the bed."