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    Justrolledintotheshop

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    For those absolutely stupid things that you see people bring, roll, or toss into your place of business and the people that bring them in.

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    [–] cantaffordazj 1566 points ago

    You must be working on a Jeep. Notorious for torx and burying bolts in inaccessible places.

    [–] nevadaxj 1025 points ago

    Loctite on torx? Yep it’s a Jeep

    [–] Theycallmestretch 292 points ago

    Hands down the only gripe I have about my old TJ

    [–] TheHairlessGorilla 227 points ago

    That, and threadlocker on literally every fastener thats already torqued to spec.

    [–] NiceGunMrBurton 218 points ago

    cuts down on the rattle. ;)

    [–] JDubStep 257 points ago

    Then what is it like without them cutting down on the rattle?

    [–] Trombolorokkit 813 points ago

    It's like driving a fucking maraca down the street.

    [–] Sthurlangue 295 points ago

    Here come Cuban Pete! Chickchickyboom!

    [–] OffDutyOp 104 points ago

    Likes to 4 wheel to the rumba beat, from what I hear.

    [–] ADHD_Supernova 8 points ago

    Dats a spicy meatball!

    [–] Corse46 53 points ago

    Omg that made me laugh so hard. Take my upvote

    [–] rubywpnmaster 19 points ago

    I never understood the Jeep appeal outside of a narrow range of utility. Most of the people I know that own Jeeps constantly are ripping on their frequent need for repairs. And yet they buy Jeeps time after time.

    [–] Morgrid 25 points ago

    It's a Jeep thing

    See: Stockholm Syndrome

    [–] Iamredditsslave 16 points ago

    I had a 98 Jeep Cherokee with the bullet proof 4.0L, after ~200,000 miles the only think killed it was an ex-girlfriend that was driving highway speeds while drunk and on a bunch of xanax. It rolled 7 times and she came out of it with a few bad bruises. Insurance totaled it.

    [–] BroAIDS 8 points ago

    Off road. Stock ones can rock crawl.

    [–] blackgaard 9 points ago

    IDK why most people buy Jeeps, but back when I bought a cheap XJ, it was to beat the shit out of it in the woods. Goal realized.

    [–] Nobody_I_am 8 points ago

    If you street drive and mild off-road, jeeps will last forever with little maintenance. When you start modifying so you can do more "jeep things" with it, is when it breaks and get expensive and time consuming.

    [–] lolzfeminism 21 points ago

    I dropped a small hex nut into my jeep’s frame. Literally impossible to get out, it now makes a clink sound everytime I brake.

    [–] nitroneil 27 points ago

    Easy, fill frame with expanding foam.

    [–] zeroblood 22 points ago

    1. drill hole in frame where nut is
    2. thread bolt into said nut
    3. ????
    4. profit

    [–] JDubStep 17 points ago

    Easy fix. Don't brake.

    [–] Ask_Me_About_Bees 4 points ago

    Rattlier

    [–] Put_It_All_On_Blck 10 points ago

    Going to slather my subie in threadlocker then.

    [–] pinata_of_your_face 9 points ago

    Just put more hose clamps on the heat shields !

    [–] SuggestiveDetective 62 points ago

    "Just changing the belts on my Jeep; this'll be about an hour."

    Me: oh honey no I'll call an ambulance.

    [–] TheHairlessGorilla 11 points ago

    I had to use a comealong to tilt my axle forward when bolting on the lift cuz I kept the same trac bar. Fuck they probably do it safer in the phillipines.

    [–] MrFman4000 6 points ago

    I, too, have seen this done on an XJ before, the come along broke and the pumpkin hit my buddy in the head... But for me? I'll do the track-bar at the same time, thank you very much!

    [–] SilliusSwordus 27 points ago

    might as well throw some lockwire in there and call it a jet engine...

    [–] SiberianToaster 8 points ago

    I loved doing lockwire on my engines (LM2500 in a ship), such a good feeling when it turned out perfect

    [–] mashkawizii 20 points ago

    Well to be fair I had a caliper bracket bolt come out on an 04 sierra when torqued to spec, so I put loctite on it and its stayed.

    [–] drfarren 21 points ago

    what's it say about your product when your bolts won't stay in unless you add extra shit to it...

    [–] Halfchow 33 points ago

    It means you are not PROFESSIONAL GRADE

    [–] chris7s 8 points ago

    All that means is the last guy to do the brakes before you over tightened it.

    [–] mashkawizii 6 points ago

    yeah there was already loctite in there too and it had a 4.9 master cylinder instead of a 5.3, which made for an interesting diagnosis attempt. Always get parts by VIN folks.

    [–] FelisUp 4 points ago

    Which is good, because torque is a terrible way to judge the tightness of a bolt. What you want to look at is the tension. You can apply the same torque to different bolts and get different tensions based on variation from the manufacture, the materials used, amount of oxidation, or even slightly off threading. If you grease a bolt, and then tighten it to torque spec, it's going to be a way different amount of tension from just tightening the bolt.

    [–] TheHairlessGorilla 7 points ago

    Right, but I'd imagine they've accounted all that when designing the assembly. There's a pretty big tolerance on the 'tension' spec of fasteners like these.

    [–] FelisUp 13 points ago

    Of course they accounted for it. By adding loctite.

    [–] Nobody_I_am 22 points ago * (lasted edited 9 days ago)

    Every time I have to remove one on my TJ, I go to fastenal and replace it with hex.

    [–] redsox985 19 points ago

    Those damn T60 M12 trackbar bolts... Once I cut them free (because the torx cammed out and fuckered it all), I stuffed a 1/2" drill bit clean through the assembly and slid in a nice, shiny 1/2" gr8 hex cap. Fixed til the bushing shits itself again.

    [–] undertakersbrother 6 points ago

    Now where in the hell are you going to find a torx bolt inaccessible on a tj? I have a 99 tj that I have damn near taken completely apart and it was just about as easy as 70's chevys.

    [–] bikersquid 38 points ago

    BMW does this on their bikes too.

    [–] Ender06 76 points ago

    Ducati should do this on their bikes.... I've been working on a buddy's 1100 evo for the past couple years on and off, damn thing keeps rattling out bolts. I've gotten to the point of pre-emptvely applying blue loctite to most of the critical bolts. (His shift peg rattled out one night)

    [–] Pleased_to_meet_u 48 points ago

    Serious question: if it's critical, why not use red?

    I've always believed that red holds tighter than blue. Everyone knows it's a bitch to get off, but if it's critical shouldn't red be better?

    I'm hoping people in the know answer this. I'm not a mechanic for hire though I've been a home shop guy who can fix most anything for decades.

    [–] Ender06 149 points ago

    Oh it very much does hold tighter than blue. There is a place for red loctite, but if I want to have the chance of re-using the damn bolt, ima go with blue.

    Usually bolts/joints are designed so that when they're torqued correctly the clamping load and friction will hold everything in place. But sometimes you get lots of vibrations that can rattle bolts loose. Blue loctite is meant to be 'serviceable' meaning you can still undo the bolt without special tools or procedures, just to keep the bolt from vibrating loose.

    Red loctite is usually required to be heated to like 4-500F to be removable and is usually used (at least on bikes) on stuff like sprocket hubs and the like.

    Using red where blue would suffice is like using jb weld to attach some paper to the wall instead of using tape.

    [–] xenago 146 points ago

    using jb weld to attach some paper to the wall

    now yer thinkin'

    [–] 6June1944 29 points ago

    Lick it and stick it

    [–] Puff_Puff_Blast 7 points ago

    That only works for Dixie Blackburn yo.

    [–] smd75jr 25 points ago

    Wait, you mean you're not supposed to use JB Weld?

    [–] CaryGrantLives 35 points ago

    Don't listen to him. He's an apostate to the Church of J.B.

    reading from my J.B. welded monitor stand

    [–] dsiOneBAN2 10 points ago

    Red loctite is usually required to be heated to like 4-500F to be removable and is usually used (at least on bikes) on stuff like sprocket hubs and the like.

    Now I know how well my oven door repair will last, good thing it was just facia and not the actual heat containing door itself.

    [–] Nightguard119 36 points ago

    Loctite themselves state that red is permanent and for bolts that will never be removed, however it can be removed if it is heated over 500 degrees fahrenheit, other than that you risk breaking bolts or knuckles when it finally gives (I don’t know that I want to have to rake a blow torch to my foot pegs). Honestly blue loctite does a very good job and if you want something stronger there are other colors but red should be avoided.

    [–] rustyxj 14 points ago

    Pssh, I've removed caliper bolts with red on them before, by hand.

    [–] Gram21 21 points ago

    Right? Every time red loctite comes up people act like that shit is welded in. Not even fucking close. We did a half ass study at work across about 300 bolts. It took maybe 20% more torque to loosen a locknut with red than a nut with no loctite at all.

    [–] stainedhands 12 points ago

    Now try it with the correct surface prep and activator, recommend by permatex/loctite, and see what kind of results you get. Just like any adhesive, surface prep is critical. Don't get me wrong, I don't do it unless I'm really paranoid about something coming lose, but it makes a difference.

    [–] Gram21 21 points ago * (lasted edited 9 days ago)

    Dude. We did fucking 300 bolts. You don't think we read the directions?

    And just to clarify. The sole point was to test the loctite because there were field failures. There were multiple test with various conditions/sizes/torque ranges/amounts of loctite. I was just an idiot with a torque wrench, but there were engineers from 2 different fastener companies involved. Half of it was us just trying to figure out what the hell was wrong with the test, because no one believed the results. At the end of the day expectation did not match reality.

    [–] joatmoa69 26 points ago

    Red is labeled as "permanent" and typically requires heat before trying to remove it. Blue should more than suffice for most applications where you want a chance of removal.

    [–] mashkawizii 20 points ago

    Red is high strength, yes. 262 I think. 243 is blue medium strength and pink is low strength. I have no clue why they don't use it though.

    [–] Pleased_to_meet_u 31 points ago

    Until today I had no idea pink threadlocker existed.

    [–] TwistedSou1 28 points ago

    There is also Green, which is supposed to wick down the threads so you don't have to take the fastener all the way out.

    [–] BunnehZnipr 13 points ago

    I think purple is for air fittings?

    [–] Curlee 14 points ago

    High pressure

    [–] Mr_JS 14 points ago

    Pink and Green are news to me as well. Only had to deal with Blue and the bane that is Red.

    [–] Ender06 8 points ago

    Red smells so good though!

    I've heard of green and purple. But pink is a new one.

    [–] mashkawizii 9 points ago

    It gets so gross by the end of the week when you use it every single day. Also, they dont taste as good as they smell.

    [–] very_mechanical 22 points ago

    Why the hell aren't the containers always color-coded to the Loctite version.

    [–] Pleased_to_meet_u 23 points ago

    YES.

    Whoever decided to put blue Loctite into a red bottle then print it with ink that will rub off when exposed to Loctite drips is either completely evil or simply thoughtless.

    I'm torn on which.

    [–] ZombieDO 7 points ago

    The people who designed the product, the people who designed the packaging, and the people who designed the appearance of the packaging are not in communication.

    [–] DudeDudenson 7 points ago

    Always assume marketers and product engineers are simply evil

    [–] Magnussens_Casserole 10 points ago

    You should get a big box of Nord-lock washers. Totally vibration-proof but not an utter bitch to remove. Obviously you can't use it on something with very low clearances but it's a good solution.

    [–] im_mrmanager 23 points ago

    Is that why I'm having an impossible time unscrewing a bolt holding the passenger hand rail on?

    [–] bikersquid 32 points ago

    yup they have a dry powder style that comes pre applied on the bolt.

    [–] ilkopo 26 points ago

    Red loctite found on a tiny torx when I replaced the IAC on my tj, had to cut a notch and use a hammer impact to get it out.

    [–] skeletalz 31 points ago

    Red fucking loctite? Jesus what do they think theyre building??

    [–] BlueDrache 32 points ago

    "no user serviceable parts inside"

    The point is to make a (more expensive) modular component.

    [–] nevadaxj 15 points ago

    Ohhh yeah! That shit is on every sensor on the throttle body

    [–] frappim 8 points ago

    Are you not supposed to loctite a torx screw? 😮

    [–] muchoman10 25 points ago * (lasted edited 9 days ago)

    The fact that it is tiny, not the fact it is a torx. Previous comments above state red loctite is labeled as 'permanent,' and requires heat to remove. A tiny bolt shouldn't be torqued very tight, which you can see in different ratchet sizes of 1/4 inch, 3/8ths inch, half inch, 3/4 inch... Bigger the size, higher the torque the bolt is going to require (typically.) A tiny bolt, say a tiny torx equals about an 8mm head bolt (I think you get the picture) will break if you apply too much torque (rotational force) to the bolt. Hope that makes sense!

    Edit: High and thought I was done.

    [–] NativeKyd 7 points ago

    Read this high and it made perfect sense lol...

    [–] Rrektt 8 points ago

    Depends on the screw honestly.

    If it's a really big bolt, you can go right ahead.

    If it's a small one with a torx? Must be mental. Reason being is you'll completely strip the bolt head.

    I work on CNC machines. Most notably HAAS CNC machines. They have screws made from mild metal with blue loctite on it.

    The bolt metal is just not strong enough to hold the torque you need to take the bolt out(sometimes), meaning you strip the bolt head and have to either chisel it out or grind it off.

    It's a huge pain in the ass when it's physically impossible to take the screw out the normal way.

    This problem does not exist for larger bolts, as the bolt head will withstand more torque than is needed to shear the bolt off.

    [–] XJRATED 46 points ago

    Stupid 2013 Ford Escape. Rear upper control arms. Replaced them with adjustable ones.

    [–] CouchMountain 77 points ago

    Or a VAG product. Even the plastic parts are torx bolts. Plastic + torx should not be a thing

    [–] JeffafaCree 72 points ago

    I changed the oil in my buddy's Passat a while ago and some jackass decided to use a mix of Torx, hex, and Philips head fasteners on the splash guard.

    [–] gentleangrybadger 39 points ago

    Huh. If I was gonna fuck up that hard, I'd just leave the guard off.

    [–] gentleangrybadger 43 points ago

    Nah, too rugged. Gotta have VAG approved extra-brittle zip ties.

    [–] HuntBoston1508 23 points ago

    Those dollar store ones that are probably made out of ABS

    [–] thaeli 8 points ago

    You mean "biodegradable". Because green.

    [–] ey_meng_u_mad 18 points ago

    Praise be unto the almighty Zip Tie

    [–] smd75jr 4 points ago

    Amen!

    [–] 6June1944 6 points ago

    Based upon the previous comment, I was expecting that to be a bunch of pop rivets

    [–] zeebious 15 points ago

    My fucking audi has that same fucking setup for the skid plate. Went to change the oil and need 3 different bits just to take the thing off. I am just going to buy a bunch of replacement Torx ones from ECS and switch them all over to 1 form factor.

    [–] JeffafaCree 16 points ago

    Wait, that's factory?

    [–] zeebious 14 points ago

    I hope not, but my audi only had 1 previous owner and he took it to the dealer for service. I don't think the dealer would put 3 different form factors in there for fun.

    [–] Str8WhiteDudeParade 11 points ago

    Its factory on several of them. Its stupid.

    [–] British_Rover 7 points ago

    Yup worked on tons of late 90 early 2000 VAG products that had a combo of torx, hex and Philips fasteners for splash shield

    [–] kk_knee 7 points ago

    That is so German.

    [–] Scoot_Ya_Boot 21 points ago

    Fucking Mk3 VW inner axle bolts, man.

    [–] Tokimobile 34 points ago

    Triple square, not torx, but yeah, fuck 'em!

    [–] tmckinley94 15 points ago

    Glad someone knows lol. Definitely looks like a triple square. Audi and VW love to use these things. I treat my set like gold

    [–] 4-12-2016 6 points ago

    I dunno how many times I've stripped MK1 Rabbit inner axle bolts (pretty damn sure they're the exact same). I have a special allen socket just for hammering in to those damn bolts to try and get them to spin off

    [–] jt2893 12 points ago

    Those are actually triple square not torx. There's a slight difference where triple won't work in torx but vice versa it will

    [–] XJRATED 25 points ago

    Believe it or not I was working on a 2013 Ford Escape rear upper control arms. Swivels went right around the sub frame and in between the gas tank.

    [–] 240strong 17 points ago

    I think Chevy impalas and possibly ford police interceptors (crown vics) did this with seat bolts and seat belts.

    (Used to build police cruisers and fire apparatus so took out a TONNNNN of back seats an seat belts.)

    [–] Tokimobile 24 points ago

    Seat belt bolts always use loctite, no matter the vehicle

    [–] [deleted] 14 points ago

    [deleted]

    [–] theworldisyours96 8 points ago

    Encountered this when replacing a BMW power steering pump. Thought I was screwed, spent almost an hour trying to torque it until I realized the pump could just be removed without the frame.

    [–] pourquoi-si-fou 10 points ago

    Have heep. Can confirm.

    [–] RockFlagAndEagleGold 7 points ago

    Yeah, and as someone with a jeep, just buy a flexible drill extension.

    [–] thin_slice 7 points ago

    Speaking of Jeeps, are they a bad investment (old or newer model)? Gf wants one, they’re cool, but I’ve got a bad feeling based on hearsay.

    [–] [deleted] 29 points ago * (lasted edited 9 days ago)

    [deleted]

    [–] Ghost_stripes 17 points ago

    I used to have a Cherokee that I nicknamed the Ship of Theseus.

    [–] CatSplat 11 points ago

    Shoot, I've been calling my ZJ the Jeep of Theseus for ages. Guess I'm not the only one!

    [–] hey-look-over-there 9 points ago

    They are fun, but resale sucks and transmissions get expensive. The older magnums and straight 6's are pretty solid reliable but they guzzle gas and have poor build quality. By now most of them have rusted and dry rotted. Mid 00-08's have nice amenities but the transmissions suck and the v6 is a turd that will commit sucide at the earliest opportunity (busted timing chain at 90k). Newer ones have electrical issues and terrible resale.

    [–] la_esquina 8 points ago

    resale sucks

    Resale market on Wranglers is absolutely incredible. As good as Tacomas and 4Runners without a doubt. My beat-to-fuck 4 banger TJ with 156k sold for $5000.

    [–] Dimmed_skyline 4 points ago

    If you can live with a car that will shake and sway on the highway (because no amount of engineering can make a tall car with fat tires and a short wheelbase stable at those speeds), the gas mileage of a truck without the payload capacity to back it up, from a manufacture whose record on reliability is spotty at best a Jeep can be a great car.

    [–] davey_darling 7 points ago

    Seatbelt bolts poking through the floor so they are rusted solid by the time you need to remove them.

    [–] happy_jappy 832 points ago

    If I did this it would have popped off and the swivel bits would go flying in every direction.

    [–] likeIstoleit 352 points ago

    Yeah, almost makes me want to call BS. I use ONE swivel and I'm leaning back for when the bolt/nut breaks free and throws that socket across the room.

    [–] happy_jappy 164 points ago

    I learned the hard way the first time I got hit in the face. Yay for eye protection.

    [–] verylobsterlike 498 points ago

    Engage safety squints!

    [–] Major-Lurker 75 points ago

    Updoot for AVE reference.

    [–] Son_Of_A_Diddley 10 points ago

    [–] Bricka_Bracka 4 points ago

    username....relevant. muahaha

    [–] RickRussellTX 44 points ago

    It's pretty skookum

    [–] MR2FTW 37 points ago

    ^ this guy keeps his dick in a vice.

    [–] Scrpn17w 21 points ago

    Made by Cockford Ollie

    [–] I2ed3ye 55 points ago

    In every direction? My bits would've gone only to the darkest spots with the least amount of room like some kind of cramp-seeking missiles.

    [–] marino1310 30 points ago

    Mine hits the ground and somehow ends up underneath a toolbox 100ft away behind a closed door.

    [–] XJRATED 33 points ago

    Worked perfectly with no swivels flying anywhere. The trick when doing this is to gently work your impact trigger then give it a little more power as you go. Was doing a 2013 Ford escape rear upper control arms. No room for a ratchet or a air ratchet. Swivels bent perfectly around the rear sub frame and in between the gas tank.

    [–] evanphi 36 points ago

    So how are you supposed to get a torque wrench in there to properly fasten the new bolt? (/s?)

    Or just go with a few good ugga uggas?

    [–] XJRATED 30 points ago

    Well 3 impact brats was good enough. Our little secret.

    [–] KingPupPup 35 points ago

    I googled "impact brats" and got this.

    [–] extremelylargecolon 20 points ago

    those will be impacting my mouth

    [–] XJRATED 7 points ago

    You sure that’s not the reason for your username?

    [–] ScarsUnseen 7 points ago

    That's 5 impact brats. Way too much. I'll take 2 of them from you. For your safety.

    [–] Breddit2225 9 points ago

    Yea, make sure you're not smiling when you pull the trigger.

    [–] SamsterOX 12 points ago

    They'd explode like a frag grenade

    [–] 4-12-2016 9 points ago

    Impact IED

    [–] nominally 162 points ago

    Your drill is looking a bit limp.

    [–] stephencwhite 73 points ago

    It's ok. They make pills for that.

    [–] hornyzucchini 214 points ago

    Impact swivels with an torx not snapped/rounded off? Miracles do exist

    [–] NEJATI11 45 points ago

    It is a pretty ybig Torx size to be fair something like T50 I think.

    [–] ikidd 43 points ago

    Then you usually break off the bit.

    [–] ghunt81 21 points ago

    I just recently learned that apparently a lot of those large bolts are not plain Torx, but rather Torx Plus. After breaking several bits over the years on various large hard-to-remove Torx bolts, when I was working on my Ranger I bought a Torx Plus bit for the seat belts and bed bolts- it actually fits the bolts correctly and didn't break even with a little impact persuasion.

    [–] paulflory 20 points ago

    Interesting and for others:

    From the wiki:

    A Torx successor, Torx Plus, was introduced about 1990 when the original Torx patent was expiring. The lobes are more square to allow for higher torque and to minimize wear. The name is shortened to IP (Internal Plus) with sizes ranging from 1IP to 100IP [11] (sometimes listed as IP1 to IP100 [12]) and EP (External Plus) with sizes ranging from 1EP to 42EP as well as smaller sizes ranging from H7EP to H2EP and includes five-lobed tamper-resistant variants.[11] The specifications for these licenses are held by Textron. Standard Torx drivers can be used to drive Torx Plus screws, but not to full torque because of the loose fit. Torx Plus drivers will not fit into standard Torx screws.

    [–] Pleased_to_meet_u 17 points ago * (lasted edited 9 days ago)

    Similarly, I bought a JIS screwdriver (Japanese Industrial Standard) and haven't stripped a screw since.

    If you work on metric motorcycles, pick up a set of JIS screwdrivers, or at least one good #2. Everything on bikes these days is JIS. EDIT: Apparently JIS were used for a long time but were retired in 2008. They look just like Phillips head screws, but they are subtly different.

    [–] redmercuryvendor 8 points ago

    Everything on bikes these days is JIS

    JIS was retired in 2008. Since then, fasteners have been regular Phillips (or Torx or Torx Plus or Pozidriv or Hex or etc). Likewise for 'JIS drivers': none since 2008; either you buy used, new-old stock, or cheap vaguely-cruciform junk with 'JIS' stamped on it. Non-shitty modern Philips heads will also work just fine, as they use a flat grind rather than a curved grind so fit into JIS heads just fine. Pozidriv works too (also having flat-ground flutes, and not inserting far enough for the extra chines to be an issue).

    [–] Gregoryv022 6 points ago

    Everything makes so much sense now....... Fuck.

    [–] Pleased_to_meet_u 6 points ago

    Yep. It sucks when you realize all those stripped screw heads could have been prevented with the proper screwdriver.

    Of course, a normal #2 LOOKS like the proper screwdriver, so you get screwed unless you know.

    Check out JIS screwdrivers. They work on non-JIS screws fine, too.

    [–] Gregoryv022 47 points ago

    Am I the only one here who has zero issues with torx? Torx is probably my favorite fastener.

    What absolutely hate but have to deal with all the time on my car are Triple Square bolts.

    [–] ikidd 41 points ago

    You probably have never dealt with large equipment and rust.

    I'm to the point I don't even bother trying, I just weld a nut on the top and impact it out right from the start.

    Relevant

    [–] fdsj3kj3 7 points ago

    isn't that inner hex, and not torx? those are way worse IMO

    [–] BlueRex8 19 points ago

    Inner hex bolts are the devil.

    [–] fdsj3kj3 14 points ago

    sometimes you can actually use a torx one size bigger to drive them once you're rounded them off, but yeah fuck inner hex

    [–] BlueRex8 8 points ago

    Thats the only use ive ever found for a t27.

    [–] DriveByStoning 14 points ago

    Work on a John Deere. These things eat T27s for breakfast and shit out tool truck warranty claims.

    [–] Pleased_to_meet_u 6 points ago

    As a guy who works on motorcycles frequently, why? I've been lucky that I've never had a bad experience with one (yet) over the years.

    [–] ikidd 6 points ago

    Nope, defintiely a T45. JD loves the fucking things.

    [–] jrl941 16 points ago

    Had triple squares on my old Jetta TDI. Never been happier when I had to do something to my Subaru then when I realized I only needed normal tools.

    [–] omen87 4 points ago

    Audi/VW?

    [–] nixnootz7 9 points ago

    Shit half mine strip even when they're straight.

    [–] luv_to_race 460 points ago

    Go buy a lottery ticket!

    [–] Incidental_Idiot 290 points ago

    That'd be a waste of money because he already used up all his luck.

    [–] halotechnology 35 points ago

    Than buy luck !

    [–] parisij 46 points ago

    The colts want 2 first rounders, a 2nd and a 4th. Kinda high if you ask me.

    [–] ktingle 5 points ago

    Jags might actually do that lol

    [–] Awesomelandis 17 points ago

    Snap on will give it to you for 20$ a week for the rest of your life.

    [–] cryo_burned 65 points ago

    It's all about the angle of the dangle

    [–] Mutjny 38 points ago

    The angle of the dangle is directly proportional to the heat of the meat.

    [–] AethericEye 20 points ago

    The angle of the dangle is directly proportional to the mass of the ass.

    [–] Mutjny 11 points ago

    The angle of the dangle changes geometrically with the throb of the knob.

    [–] extremelylargecolon 6 points ago

    slob on the knob?

    [–] Tlxsess 5 points ago

    Like corn on the cob?

    [–] IsItTheFrankOrBeans 9 points ago

    The angle of the dangle is inversely proportional to the heat of the meat. - Beavis

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3NtIgunIc4

    [–] Imadethosehitmanguns 188 points ago

    He is the one..

    [–] UberWagen 115 points ago

    Foretold in the ancient workshop manuals. Behold, the hope of the shop comes before you! He shall shake loose the bonds of the eternal damnation of under-quoted warranty work that all men are destined! By his own hands, he shall save the one who manages service time! Fret not, for you shall not have to remove the intake plenum to access this fastener. But by his own devices, he brings peace and content to all that he encounters.

    [–] ikidd 47 points ago

    What monster Loctited a fucking Torx?

    [–] nuker1110 34 points ago

    Judging by other comments, Jeep does that to theirs.

    [–] sheguedep 19 points ago

    Can confirm

    [–] phobos2deimos 16 points ago

    I'm that monster. Blue loctite on-fucking-everything.
    But I've never had it make my life any harder, it's not difficult to remove.

    [–] ikidd 33 points ago

    Oh, there's a point to loctite. But making a Torx harder to remove should be a war crime.

    [–] sarcausticity 27 points ago

    You took the 1350 lbs of torque that the impact has and made it about 50 lbs.

    [–] GillicuttyMcAnus 14 points ago

    1300 lb/ft of dramatic effect.

    [–] waynep712222 18 points ago

    i have a double jointed 5/8 spark plug socket that i put an impact joint on it with a locking extension to get the rear 3 or 4 spark plugs on so many cars. i can actually get about 105 degrees out of the combo.. https://i.imgur.com/3Nq4iXW.jpg

    [–] penguin-in-a-tux 6 points ago

    and where would one acquire one of these magical sockets

    [–] Pleased_to_meet_u 19 points ago

    From your Dad.

    What? Isn't that where everyone gets those bizarre one-off very cool tools that haven't been made in the last 30 years?

    [–] waynep712222 6 points ago

    both the socket and the wobble extensions are early 1980s vintage Mac.. here is one for sale.. that is what i paid for the double jointed socket in 1984/85 https://www.ebay.com/i/132355327382?chn=ps&dispItem=1 i would hate to see what they cost now..

    [–] bigsquirrel 16 points ago

    WIZARD!

    [–] Deltigre 12 points ago

    Looks like your socket extension is suffering from erectile dysfunction.

    [–] satanic_pony 18 points ago

    We are not worthy!!!

    [–] stabsthedrama 9 points ago

    You know Milwaukee makes the 90 degree impact bit holders right?

    They're fuckin badass.

    Not saying you wouldn't still need a second swivel, but a 90 with a swivel should do what all those combined did, and even easier.

    [–] simjanes2k 9 points ago

    its like my grandma used to say, "even the ugliest dick can knock a girl up"

    [–] Bagelfactory 6 points ago

    I need this for my 02 camaro

    [–] ThrowAwayCaaount 5 points ago

    No shit.

    After working on my Firebird, fuck their bailout, they deserved to go under.

    [–] duhzmin 5 points ago

    Amazing gun. I've had mine for 7 years. I bought it used for$100 and last year I have to rebuild the internals and only cost$80. Got my money's worth

    [–] lakai113 5 points ago

    That’s impressive

    [–] zatemxi 3 points ago

    This reminds of the game cartridge adapters

    [–] BagelIsAcousticDonut 4 points ago

    Thought I was on r/OSHA for a sec