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    [–] hmmmmm.... ex0- 2 points ago in climbing

    Citation required. Link me something showing rethreaded fig8 failures on bodyweight?

    [–] hmmmmm.... ex0- 3 points ago in climbing

    A fig8 is triple redundant in and of itself. You'd have to not tie it for it to fail. Even badly tied 8s don't benefit from a stopper.

    [–] Cleaning graffiti off sandstone ex0- 2 points ago in climbing

    My local crag is soft sandstone and the council hired a professional grave stone cleaner (graves in the area are also the same sort of sandstone) who managed to get off 40+ years of layered spraypaint with some sort of pressure washer without damaging the holds too badly. Tiny bit of chipping but it's not noticable unless you climb there a lot.

    [–] hmmmmm.... ex0- 7 points ago in climbing

    Fig8s do not need a stopper knot. A yosemite tuck is the clear best way to move the tail if you happen to misjudge the ~3" tail by a few extra inches. If you can't tie a fig8 without a foot and a half of extra rope after it's rethreaded you need to sit down and practice until you can.

    [–] hmmmmm.... ex0- 15 points ago in climbing

    I really want a pair of those Mammut Realisation shorts. Maybe if I can find them on offer.

    [–] Non-climbing day routines (flexibility, core, antagonist, anaerobic/aerobic exercise) ex0- 1 points ago in climbing

    30 seconds legs at 5 inches above ground

    That's called a dish. You can high dish as well but it's hard on the tailbone or w/e that's called in humans.

    [–] Climbing Over Water ex0- 5 points ago in climbing

    It's called Psicobloc (psycho bouldering) or DWS (deep water soloing). Quite common in the EU where we have lots of coastal rock and warm water.

    [–] A Star To Guide Us – GuildWars2.com ex0- -3 points ago in MMORPG

    You're kidding right? Have you seen the gameplay videos for Lost Ark? It's an Asian B grade copy of D3. Don't be surprised if it's nothing like GW2 which, for its many faults, is at least an AAA release.

    [–] Slab! ex0- 4 points ago * (lasted edited a day ago) in climbing

    Look at the picture dude. Chances of something falling from above? Zero. The belayer is at the top. Chances of climber inverting on a fall and hitting his head? Zero, he's on a TR.

    Like many climbers I wear my lid when necessary. It's to protect against specific dangers and if don't think those dangers are present (or particularly likely to occur) then I'm not gonna wear one. I don't wear a kevlar vest in every day life either FWIW, despite the low chance that those random bullets might find me. Constantly badgering people to wear a helmet after they've made the concious decision not to is just stupid.

    [–] Where can I find the Reel Rock movies for free? ex0- 4 points ago in climbing

    Not for about 15 years. Torrents are where it's at these days.

    Welcome to the internet!

    [–] How to clean a top rope anchor ex0- -1 points ago in climbing

    Rest of the world is a big place buddy. Mind you coming here telling everyone to abseil because it's less wear probably indicates you're a newer climber so whoever taught you is to blame really.

    [–] How to clean a top rope anchor ex0- 1 points ago in climbing

    The rest of the world lowers. That work for you as a source?

    [–] V2 at my crag. Funny scream ex0- 2 points ago in bouldering

    Length obviously has an affect on difficulty. If you've got a 10 move V1 boulder problem you'd grade it V1. If that same problem was 25 moves with no rest it'd probably get a higher grade by virtue of it being longer and therefore having more moves. The difficulty of the second problem is significantly harder than the first despite them having the same technical grade.

    [–] V2 at my crag. Funny scream ex0- 2 points ago in bouldering

    Er not true - boulder problems can be graded with length being taken into account if needed.

    [–] V3 and 5.10+ plateau ex0- 0 points ago in climbing

    have a break in the middle or 1/3 of the way through the session

    [–] Hang board for newbie? ex0- 2 points ago in climbing

    I think the risks of hangboarding for beginners are overstated

    Agreed. It's not the risks that matter - those are known and well documented. The point is it's a bad frame of mind for a beginner to get into. Hangboarding is a specific method of building a specific type of strength and it builds that strength slowly and over time. The reason newbies shouldn't do it is they progress very quickly with zero training and if they start hangboarding while new they'll mistakenly think that they are progressing fast due to the hangboarding and then spread that misinformation to other newbies. The dangers aren't super large but get loads of people doing it and the chance of injury is multiplied.

    Plus more to the point it's a complete waste of time. They simply don't get ANYTHING from the training. It makes them progress slower because they are hangboarding rather than actually climbing. Have you ever watched new climbers 'hangboard'? They never have any idea what they are doing.

    [–] Hang board for newbie? ex0- 4 points ago in climbing

    Read the millions of other 'hey i'm a new climber and I do pullups on a hangboard 3 nights a week is this bad for me' posts to see why this is a terrible idea.

    [–] Starting again questions ex0- 2 points ago in climbing

    Gear will be fine if it hasn't been stored in a pool of acid.

    [–] Lowering from big wall traverse ex0- 3 points ago in climbing

    Jugged back up the line prolly if humping back up wouldn't have worked.

    [–] V3 and 5.10+ plateau ex0- 3 points ago in climbing

    If progression is something that keeps you climbing you need to fix that problem. You will hit a wall that you can't pass at only 2 short sessions a week - particularly if you're splitting your focus between leading and bouldering. I don't think you're there yet but most people simply don't progress at any reasonable pace without putting more time in after a certain point.

    [–] V3 and 5.10+ plateau ex0- 2 points ago in climbing

    Climb more. Most people who are actively working on progressing are doing 3 days a week. Many do more than that. Mon-wed-fri is very common in bouldering gyms. Not to mention on one of the days you climb you're doing weird focused training instead of climbing an absolute shitload of things.

    You don't say how long you're actually climbing for when you go climbing but if your sessions aren't ~3 hours or so (the majority of which should be climbing - have a break in the middle or 1/3 of the way through the session) you're not climbing enough.

    [–] There is a beginer rock climbing class at my local climbing gym today... ex0- 3 points ago in climbing

    I think it's a spam account. Their posts are all over the place and total cancer.