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    [–] OI! GITZ! DIS GROT NEEDS PAINTN TIPS! wurrkop 2 points ago in orks

    I agree, the boyz that wore me out were painted back in the early '00s, a time when priming black was still the norm for anything that wasnt super bright, the fact that i give it as an example a decade and a half later should tell everyone how much painting over black sucks :P

    [–] OI! GITZ! DIS GROT NEEDS PAINTN TIPS! wurrkop 5 points ago in orks

    I used to do black primer but really wore myself out when i painted my first 80 boyz because all of the layers it required.

    My last mob of Shoota Boyz and unit of grots were done like THIS which i find to be a good balance between ease, time spent and good looks.

    Here are the mentioned Grots.

    When you use regular colors (as opposed to washes) i highly recommend a wet palette because it keeps your paint thinned, make one by putting a bit of parchment/baking paper on top of a moist bit of cloth inside of a container that you can close airtight, like a shallow lunch box or something.

    [–] Boyz: Slugga/Choppas or Shootas? Which is best? wurrkop 24 points ago in orks

    Shootas iz betta at Shootin', Choppas iz betta at Choppin'.

    [–] Is anyone else having trouble luring is arm on? I've to look online, but I couldn't find anything. wurrkop 0 points ago in orks

    Havnt built that one but from the looks of it there is only one way it fits?

    If all of the sprue attachment points are cleaned off nicely it should pretty much just slot it, does it dry fit alright?

    [–] Fluff help wurrkop 1 points ago in orks

    Oh, i remember Tuska, i got to see part of Loopys Tuska force when there was meet up with a bunch podcasters in England a couple of years ago.

    Found some pics of his stuff:

    [–] Big mek with KFF gone? wurrkop 3 points ago * (lasted edited 2 days ago) in orks

    They dont sell the model anymore so its not in the codex and likely to be fully removed when the index gets deprecated, until that happens you can take one out of the index xenos. Costs a big choppa less than the Shock Attack Big Mek.

    [–] Fluff help wurrkop 3 points ago in orks

    Found a quote from the book Waaargh The Orks! that came out in 1990:

    There is no predilection for Chaos among the Orks; indeed, Orks are much less likely to turn to Chaos than Humans or other races. This is due to the fact that the Ork race is relatively stable and content. There is little psychic stress or angst among the Orks, which leaves virtually no avenue through which Chaos can invade their minds.

    Every Ork knows vaguely that when he finally falls upon some stricken field (the majority of Orks meet their end in battle), his soul will merge with the mighty Ork war gods in the warp. ... He has nothing to fear from from the ravenous soul eating gods that other races grovel to in terror. The Ork gods will protect him. Orks happily accept this destiny.

    [–] Fluff help wurrkop 3 points ago * (lasted edited 2 days ago) in orks

    There isnt much chaos/ork fluff around, i know there were Khorne Stormboyz back in the early nineties but other than that i dont think there has been any official crossings of chaos/orks and i think it has been said that Orks are naturally resistant to chaos influence since then.

    Here is a bols article on Khorne Stormboyz:

    You can of course say your orks work with the chaos forces on an ally/hired/freebooter basis, thats fine as long as the orks are getting what they want or you can fluff your own Waaagh to be one that has turned.

    [–] Kit bashed deffrolla? wurrkop 1 points ago in orks

    PET as in polyethylene terephthalate. the regular plastic bottles with screw tops.

    [–] Kit bashed deffrolla? wurrkop 6 points ago in orks

    That would be me, here it is again: Two PET bottle caps rolled in a layer of card board, capped with round cardboard "lids" on the ends, then more cardboard for plates and acrylic 1mm rhinestones picked up with the point of a hobby knife, dipped in super glue and placed on the rolla for the rivets, pretty easy and almost free, Rhinestones cost a buck for hundreds of them and are useful for pretty much all ork stuff because you can never have too many rivitz. BBQ skewers for the axles.

    [–] Fun with Teleporta's wurrkop 1 points ago in orks

    Picking Big Shootas might actually be the better option for drop and charge killa kanz, guaranteed 3 shots, no penalty to hit since the Shoota is assault as opposed to the 'zooka being heavy, S5 instead of S6 but 5pts per kan cheaper as well.

    [–] How big is the Warboss on Wartrike? wurrkop 2 points ago in orks

    Id be interested to know this as well, anyone with the model care to take a scale comparison pic next to Grukk or perhaps the AOBR boss?

    [–] Getting Started wurrkop 2 points ago in orks

    Check ebay for job lots or assault on black reach sprues, the per boy cost can be very low.

    [–] Where to find Battlewagon deff rolla upgrade kit? wurrkop 12 points ago in orks

    Dont have a lead on one for you but they are pretty easy to make.

    Here are two ive made: Two PET bottle caps dressed up with cereal box cardboard to make an even surface all the way around, more cereal box as plates for a nicer look and then "riveted" with 1mm rhinestones (brilliant for rivits, 100s for a buck) picked up with the point of a hobby knife, dipped in super glue and placed on the rolla.

    The arms on the blue one are mainly sentinel legs that i got in a trade a long time back, the axles going through the rolla and the body of the wagon are wooden bbq skewer that have been cut to length.

    The unpainted on needs a bit more detailing on the arms but i included it to show the "bare" rolla.

    [–] They took our words away! wurrkop 7 points ago in orks

    Maybe the full list took up to much space? There are glyphs from all the way back in the 2nd ed codex that i can remember, maybe even earlier.

    [–] So about the Mega armor boss and plan big Mek? wurrkop 1 points ago in orks

    Seems like they are trying to get away from resin stuff as much as possible, if a range is "playable" without the resin bits they are getting cut.

    With the resin stuff they very likely have master models put away for safe keeping and could get new molds made at a moments notice, if they wanted to.

    With the new way of actually putting datasheets in boxes or chapter approved books they could get put out new stuff between codex revisions but i dont think its very likely.

    [–] Shiney Gubbinz for the Deff Killa wurrkop 2 points ago in orks

    Yes, but not to put on the same character, each can only have one relic.

    [–] So that tankbusta kit is some BS huh wurrkop 6 points ago * (lasted edited 6 days ago) in orks

    Ive put a couple of rokkit bits from other kits on the front of shootas with their mags removed, looks alright and is very easy.

    If you are really on the cheap you can carve a pointy cylinder out of sprue, make stabilizer fins out of cross section slices of more sprue and call it a day.

    Another option is lengths of styrene rods or tubes, cap em with green stuff and make wings outa greenstuff or styrene sheet and glue on.

    Bombs are a bit more annoying to recognizably make from scratch but if you bought the current boyz kit then you have a tankbusta bomb and those can easily be reproduced one sided using a bit of green stuff -> They have almost no detail on the underside, just a raised ring so putting any sorta greebly bit there is easy but almost superfluous.

    [–] My take on the Dragsta wurrkop 4 points ago in orks

    That front looks a lot better!

    [–] Material for 3d printed terrain wurrkop 3 points ago in TerrainBuilding

    There are positivs and negatives to both. ABS works with plastic cement, i dont think PLA does because of the chemistry inside of the material. ABS might be harder to print with because it has more of a tendency to warp than PLA does. The surface of ABS prints can be smoothed using acetone vapor, this might be of interest depending on the terrain piece, if you are going to be texturing or using some kind of filler this does not matter and you might as well use PLA.

    [–] Finished up the rocks, here shown on the mat that was also finished over the last few days. wurrkop 1 points ago * (lasted edited 8 days ago) in TerrainBuilding

    The rock bits were rough cut from extruded polystyrene using a diy hot wire cutter , hot glued together, then shaped/blended together with the hot wire cutter and then sealed/primed with a slurry of PVA, wall filler, fine sand and acrylic burnt umber paint. Did a base coat of burn umber to get full coverage, the primer layer as a little transparent here and there and didnt completely cover the orange XPS, the next steps are at the end of this comment.

    The mat is a piece of fabric onto which i spread 5 tubes of acrylic caulk and sand, one tube at a time and sprinkling on sand as i went, Painted on two layers of burn umber and then the steps are below.

    Then the painting for both was like this: Then a light and spotty drybrush of a reddish acrylic. Then an even yellow ochre drybrush. Then a grey umber drybrush. Then a wash of burnt umber mixed with black.